![]() “I specialized in menu creations, so I would just say, ‘Tell me what you want,’ and ‘Well, I’m Jewish and he’s Puerto Rican, and we want to do this wedding,’’’ he said. Before the Shaw Bijou, those influences were often executed in conversation with specific clients of his catering company. “I’m so interested in all different types, it just happens naturally,” Onwuachi says of his cross-cultural cooking. ![]() Onwuachi is hesitant to label his cooking in any specific cultural style, though he does incorporate flavors from his own backgrounds (think celery egusi) and from around the African continent (like Ethiopian-inspired tibs wot ravioli). Sometimes billed as a Nigerian-inspired restaurant, the Shaw Bijou offered dishes that tracked Onwuachi’s travels: to Nigeria, yes, but also to Thailand, India, and all around the U.S. Even the decision to offer a tasting menu was intended to offer guests a wide range of different flavors and origins. ![]() That same inventive approach to cooking informed Onwuachi’s approach to the Shaw Bijou. Among the most notable of her specific dishes was a fisherman’s pie, made from lobster, shrimp, and crab meat and a Parmesan bechamel with pommes purée, which Onwuachi reimagined as “a caramelized lobster bechamel with a crispy potato crumble and a coal-roasted Japanese sea green.” “She inspires me to this day,” Onwuachi said of his mother, whose influence is woven throughout his meals. neighborhood where it was housed and the French translation of Onwuachi’s mother’s name, Jewel. And when the time came to open his first place, the Shaw Bijou took its name from both the D.C. While studying business administration at the University of Bridgeport (“pretty much just to please her”), Onwuachi told his mom he wanted to pursue cooking. She later moved to Baton Rouge and then New Orleans, and Onwuachi followed along. Onwuachi grew up “at her feet,” watching her pull from a variety of culinary influences as she prepared meals. His emphasis on fluidity of culture and culinary influence finds its roots in the techniques he learned and enthusiasm he inherited from his mother, who operated a catering company from her home. Moving quickly and with a tenacious desire to learn, Onwuachi, the Bronx-raised son of a Creole mother and Nigerian and Jamaican father, has made adaptation of both business strategy and food itself a hallmark of his stacked early career. The entire process felt like a blitz to Onwuachi, who “always wanted to open a restaurant but never knew it would happen that fast.” By the time he was 25, he was competing on Top Chef (he finished sixth in his season) and securing initial investments in the Shaw Bijou after winning a competition through a company called Brenner Labs. He eventually spent time as a line cook at the city’s famed Eleven Madison Park. ![]() The young chef went from waiting tables and cleaning kitchens in New York to starting his own catering company at 20. This being our first restaurant, and for some a first business venture, we had a substantial amount of learning and adjusting to do.”īut no major review ran after the restaurant’s switch to the more modest price, and within weeks, the Shaw Bijou had closed.īefore the Shaw Bijou, Onwuachi’s love of cooking had already taken him on quickly evolving journeys. In a December press release, Onwuachi said humility “creeps up on you when least expected, and the opening of this restaurant has taught us just that. “You’re gonna have to deal with it and adapt, or - I mean, there is no ‘or,’ that’s all you can do really.”įor Onwuachi, adaptation meant tweaking the original $185 tasting menu and offering a $95, seven-course menu instead. It’s part of being in the industry - getting judged. “It hurts - you put a lot of energy into something, and then someone can come along and say that they just don’t think it’s good or needs work,” Onwuachi said when we spoke recently. Onwuachi needed to change something, and he needed to do it quickly. The restaurant, with its high prices, online ticketing system for its 32 seats, multiroom-dinner-party-style setup, and Icelandic sheep wool–covered seats, was sinking under the weight of its own hype.
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